Remove heads, peel and de-vein, but leave tails in place. Marinate, briefly, in the zest, flesh and juice of a lemon to which you have added a splash of olive oil and a small, chopped chilli.

Wrap each prawn in a strip of prosciutto, and then skewer them – three or four at a time – and make into rafts by lying them flat, parallel to each other, in groups of two or three. Use two well-soaked (in water) bamboo skewers to impale each group of prawns, twice. This will make them easier to turn on the grill.

Prepared this way, the prawns should be cooked gently. Set up your barbecue for indirect cooking and add a few soaked mesquite chips to the charcoal. Cook, covered, in the middle of the grill. Cooking time will depend on the heat of your barbecue – if you can keep the heat down (100-150 °C), you can cook the prawns for from 10-15 minutes. But if it is hotter, you need cook them for only a few minutes a side. Great with a chilled riesling.

For a simpler approach, simply de-vein the prawns by splitting them down the back, leaving the heads and shells in place. Skewer them into rafts, three or four at a time. Grill, hot and briefly, and serve with a squeeze of lemon. And that glass of riesling. Or possibly two.